While I’ve been enjoying my time in northern Ontario, particularly around Lake Superior, and even Ontario as whole has been pretty good, I was more than ready to leave at this point. I entered the province on May 26 and was leaving Thunder Bay on July 8. So I’ve been in Ontario for well over a month now, even if you factor out the week long break in Toronto. I know I’m making progress and racking up a lot of kilometres, but being in one province for so long was almost making me feel like I was hardly making progress anymore. Leaving Thunder Bay, I was viewing this as a push to finally leave the enormous province and get onto something new.
Well when I left Thunder Bay, I didn’t exactly start the most efficiently in accomplishing my new goal, as I started by not taking the shortest route. I had good reason for this though as I wanted to see Kakabeka Falls, which weren’t too far from the city. It didn’t take too long to make it to the falls and I was rewarded for going the scenic route. I had heard that they were called the Niagara of the North and honestly it isn’t a bad nickname for them. While they aren’t nearly as wide and probably a bit shorter than Niagara, Kakabeka was still quite the sight to behold. After Niagara it was easily the biggest and strongest waterfall I had seen and you could get much closer to it as well. While at the falls, I also met another biker. This was Louic who started in Vancouver and was riding back home to Gaspe.
![]() |
| Kakabeka Falls |
![]() |
| Kakabeka Falls |
The rest of the day featured a couple of other notable milestones. I thought I had been doing quite a bit of climbing during the day and turns out the reason for that was that I had reached the point where there were some major watershed changes. Those being that I had now made it to where the water I would see was no longer flowing to the Atlantic Ocean but now instead, everything I would see was now flowing to the Arctic Ocean. The other milestone was reached at the end of the day. I had gotten far enough west (and north) in the eastern timezone that sunset was after 10pm for me now. This however would change now, as for the first time I had crossed into the central timezone. There was a rest area at the monument marking the time change that I would stay at for the night. While I was making supper there, I met a couple who were travelling in a former military jeep that were from Germany. They had started travelling in Europe, were now crossing Canada and then were going to continue heading south down to Chile in their jeep. They also gave me a fanta that I saved for the next day when I would want a sugary drink on the road.
![]() |
| Central timezone crossing |
The next day was mostly boring. Part of the day felt like a preview for what the prairies might be like. The roads were flat and even straight for stretches, which did let me zip along pretty fast as there wasn’t much to interest me. While there were a couple of little spots along the way, there were no proper towns leaving Thunder Bay until Ignace, which was 250km away and where I would stop for the day, finishing another larger stretch of remoteness. I think the only slightly interesting thing I saw the whole day was watching a coyote running around Ignace a little before it got dark for the night.
I awoke in the morning to find my air mattress mostly deflated. Unfortunately it had developed a leak and this would begin my air mattress troubles. I tried fixing it in the morning and it seemed mostly fine, but I’d find out for sure later in the day when I tried inflating it for the night (spoiler, it wasn’t fixed).
I rode to Dryden along the back to normal, hilly highway that was loaded full of lakes. While I was no longer on the Great Lakes, I still was regularly going by lakes as this part of Canada is littered full of them. Along the way to Dryden I also came across what I consider the most accomplished cyclist I’ve ever met. This was Xavier from Germany who was currently attempting to ride across Canada in under a month. While me and most other long distance cyclists are mostly focused on the journey for our trips, Xavier told me that he mostly liked to do them for the sport of it. On his current trip he was averaging around 250km/day, which I think is nuts. He’s done other long distance trips as well, including one around the world before. Even more insane was that his around the world trip was done in 80 some days (which is less time than from when I started until now being in northern Ontario). When I made it to Dryden, I happily went to Wabigoon Lake to cool down with a swim. I also got cleaned up and washed my cycling clothes I’d worn the past few days.
While inflating my air mattress for the night I found that not only did my fix not work, but it also developed a bulge where I had patched it. I spent over an hour trying to work on it and hoped that what I had tried would work for the night. Well I again awoke to the mattress being mostly deflated. I had used up mattress repair kit with my attempts to fix the past couple nights and would have to revisit it later in the day with new supplies.
Luckily I was in an area that had cover near me, as a couple of thunderstorms rolled through in the morning. With me being stuck waiting out the storms until noon and knowing I had work to do on my mattress, I decided to take the day off as a rest day. I explored the town some, worked on my blog a bit and got some stuff to try using on the air mattress. In the evening I ended up spending a couple hours trying to fix the mattress, as I try something, test it and then find it didn’t solve the problem. I eventually gave up with it being in a state where it was just slowly losing air (basically the same as the last couple nights).
During the night, wildfire smoke had started to roll in from the prairies. Whenever I woke up, it smelt like I was lying next to either a campfire or when smoke leaks out of our woodstove back home. When I got up in the morning (to my deflated mattress), I got out of the tent to find that the smoke was incredibly dense. It looked like a thick fog and was making it hard to see any distance. The ride into town to get some groceries felt awful. My breathing wasn’t very good and it truly felt awful trying to breath the air with how dense the smoke was. I had intended to leave Dryden but the smoke was so bad that I had to take another day off. I ended up hiding in the library for most of the day where I could get out of the smoke. I got more work done on my blog and got a post done for the first time since Parry Sound. The smoke didn’t fully go away but it did get better as the day went along. By the evening, while it wasn’t great, it was tolerable enough that I could go back outside like normal. My timing wasn’t great though as I did get caught in a short thunderstorm while I was in a park.
![]() |
| Wildfire smoke in Dryden (photo doesn’t do it justice) |
I also got something new to try on the mattress again. I tried fixing the mattress again in the evening. After working on it, I tried inflating it and the mattress ended up blowing up with a couple large gashes in it that would leave it unrepairable. While this seems like a bad thing, I actually felt relieved when the mattress blew up. It had consumed so much of my time and frustrated me so much over the last few days, that now that I knew I wouldn’t have to bother with it anymore, made me quite relieved. I still had my cell foam pad and would just use that instead. After doing some research later on, I think the problem was that I was overinflating the air mattress. That’s too bad as I found the mattress most comfortable the more inflated I had it, as I liked it firmer. Well, using just the pad now, firmness was no longer a problem. I actually slept quite well with just the pad and decided I’d just use that for now on. I think this ended up being a win-win in multiple ways. It saves me weight and space in my bags and it also saves me time at night (when I’m usually quite tired), as I no longer have to spend time inflating the mattress. Also as a note from future me, I still use just the pad and sleep about as well as I did with the mattress anyways.
It was still smoky in the morning, but not enough to stop me from being able to ride. I was getting closer to the end of Ontario too. Kenora is the last town in Ontario before you get to the border with Manitoba and if I could have a good day of riding, I could potentially make it to Kenora today. Well I’m not sure if Ontario didn’t want me to leave or not but it almost seemed like it with the weather it’s been giving me the last few days. It wasn’t delaying with me thunderstorms or smoke today, but it wasn’t blasting me with one of the worst headwinds I’d faced up to this point. Riding felt like a struggle but with the end of Ontario in sight, I wanted to push to do what I could so I could hopefully leave tomorrow.
While the wind sucked, the scenery was quite nice with all the lakes I was passing by during the day. As was normal at this point, I met some cyclists during the day. Today was Bruno who’s doing all of Canada and then later it was Rich(?) and Carole who are doing Canada in parts by doing a section each year.
In the afternoon (probably around 3) I came across a rest area on a lake that would’ve been for camping. With how the wind was at me today and how much further I had to Kenora, I almost surely wouldn’t be making it Kenora today. But with there still being day left to bike and wanting to cross into Manitoba tomorrow, I regrettably decided to leave the perfect lake rest area so I could make more progress. My map looked like it showed me that there were a couple other potential areas ahead that hopefully would be similar to this one. I came up to the first of these a couple hours later with the intention to stop for the day. Well the lake was nice, but there was nowhere for me to be able to setup my tent. I had to continue on but I was quite tired at this point from fighting the wind all day. I wasn’t finding anywhere good and by after 7, I had reached a lake not far outside Kenora I thought would be good for camping. Well unfortunately this was like the last lake, where there was nowhere (at least that I could find) that was suitable for camping. With me not being too far from Kenora at this point, I said screw it and decided on heading to Kenora. I know from experience at this point, that I can find a spot in pretty much any town to setup my tent for a night, so I know Kenora would provide with somewhere to camp for the night.
It wasn’t until 8:47 that I reached Kenora, not long before sunset and I had yet to eat or find a camp spot. I had also gotten so hot and sweaty from the day that I had to jump in the lake there which delayed eating and camping even later. I usually stop 2-3 (more ideally 3) hours before sunset, which is basically the perfect amount of time to make and eat supper, do the dishes and any other chores before bed, while also unwinding for the day. I also have a strict no riding after dark policy but that would have to be broken tonight. I gave in to going to McDonald’s with it being so late (holy is McDonald’s expensive, it’s basically the same as a real restaurant!). By the time I left McDonald’s it was dark, but with Kenora being a bigger town, it was pretty well lit so I was still able to see where I was going. I did quickly find a camping spot but was not overly happy with how the day played out. I had a perfect camping spot earlier in the day but let my desire to try to finish up Ontario drive me from away from having a more enjoyable day. This would be a day I hope to learn from in the future of the trip.
Well the one bright spot from pushing as hard as I did the day before, was the fact that I was now only 50km away from what had been driving me so hard since I left Thunder Bay: Manitoba. For as late as everything was last night and going to bed a good amount later than usual, I was up earlier than usual and on the road by 8. I passed by some more lakes (although they were starting to become less abundant) and made my way across the final stretch of Ontario. I did meet a few more cyclists before leaving Ontario though. There was Nick who was the first person I met travelling by e-bike and then later Oliver and Jason(?) who were going across Canada starting from Vancouver. Right where I met Oliver and Jason, the highway divided and I would no longer be able to pull over to the other side of the road to stop and talk with cyclists I saw anymore, which was a little disappointing although surely would be safer for me being on a divided highway.
Before noon time I was able to have a little celebration, as I finally had finished Ontario and crossed into Manitoba (although I’m not sure where exactly that happened as Manitoba has no signs, flags or anything saying your in Manitoba and the border with Saskatchewan was the same. Manitoba is apparently the only province who doesn’t care to celebrate itself for whatever reason). All the provinces before this I had been to (at least parts of them) before, but Manitoba was the first entirely new province to me. Not only that but I was about to start the prairies, which I was looking forward to.
I liked doing the hills of northern Ontario but I was getting tired of hills every day and looking forward to the flatness of the prairies. Others had told me that as soon as you cross into Manitoba the land becomes flat. So you may understand when I was disappointed to see that it wasn’t flat but actually still hills. After only a few kilometres of complaining to myself though, every was right and the hills entirely disappeared. It wasn’t truly flat as there was a very slight incline or decline, but man it was close, especially considering what I’d been riding for the last few weeks. Whenever I take a break and go on a road or path that takes me off the road I’m travelling on, I always have to do some uphill as they always go up or down from the main road. I also kind of dread it a little bit as I’m tired when I wanna take a break and don’t want to go uphill. Well you could say I was happily surprised when I stopped for my first break in Manitoba at Falcon Lake and I had no uphill to do going in or out of the village, as it was completely flat.
With the highway becoming flat and the wind slightly in my direction helping me, I flew at a consistently fast pace unlike any other point on the journey so far. As I zipped along, the landscape around me was starting to drastically change. I had been riding in boreal forest loaded full of lakes since I crossed into riding in Arctic Ocean watersheds. Well the lakes had been becoming not quite as densely populated over the last day, but now Falcon Lake was the last lake almost entirely. Entering Manitoba was still boreal forest, but that was starting to change now. It was going back to looking more like the normal type of forests I was used to. No longer was I staring at only trees with needles on them but there were leaves again. The roads weren’t just becoming flat, but also were becoming much straighter too. I hadn’t reached prairie land yet, but later in the day there were some breaks in the forest where I started to see some fields again for the first time since before I had made it to Lake Huron.
The day got to feel even better, as mid afternoon it started to rain. It would keep lightly raining until the night. The rain felt fantastic to ride in. It helped keep me from not being so hot and overall just felt refreshing. The only problem about the rain was when I stopped. I would make it to Richer for the day and when I stopped there, I also stopped generating heat that made the rain feel nice in the first place. I froze almost instantly and it took me an hour or two to finally warm up in my winter coat.
While I may have found myself trying to rush my way out of Ontario in the end, Ontario was definitely a place where I made a lot of memories on the trip. I got to see and spend time with so many friends again. I got travel with a couple of different people at points in Amour and Abraham. I had a blast riding through the large hills, remoteness and beautiful nature around Lake Superior. I also got to meet tons of cyclists and people in general too. And I also think I grew comfortable and happy just being on my own overall during my time in northern Ontario.
Now that Ontario was finished though, I was absolutely looking forward to the next part of the trip: experiencing the prairies and their flatness.
Distance Biked: 690.4km
Total Distance Biked: 5187.4km































